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June 07, 2022 3 min read
A caliber corresponds to the internal part of a watch, the 'skeleton' that generates its movement.
It is important to know that there is a difference between the movement and the caliber of a watch. A movement involves all the parts of the watch and the three main ones are Manual, Automatic and Quartz.
In the past, the caliber was designated by the name of the manufacturer. Nowadays there are very common and demanded calibers which we will mention together with their brands, meaning and history.
Among the most demanded calibers are the ETA and Sellita or also known as SW. However in the highest range of watchmaking are the manufacture calibers.
The name caliber is closely associated with the weapons industry, however in watchmaking its use began in the seventeenth century when an English watchmaker decided to name his creation taking into account the placement of the different components and the size of the movement.
Today each brand and manufacturer establishes its own name and caliber numbering, based on its watches.
They come from the company ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse, a subsidiary of the Swatch group. It specializes in the creation of calibers, which makes it the creator of many of the most common calibers in watches.
ETA allows to acquire calibers with different levels of quality: Standard, Elaboré, Top and Chronomètre. Each of these levels, also have a different finish, which differentiates their refinement.
The most common ETA caliber is the 2824-2, with automatic movement with three hands and date. On the other hand, there is the most popular ETA mechanical chronograph caliber called Valjoux 7750. The characteristics of this type of caliber with mechanical chronograph, have 25 jewels and a power reserve of 48 hrs.
Roamer Mechaline Pro with caliber ETA 2824-2
The first two numbers of the caliber type refer to the caliber family, and the last two numbers indicate the corresponding complications and functions.
Sellita was established as a brand of caliber manufacturer in 2003. Its strict quality standards are an added value, making this company also the producer of a large part of the most common calibers in watches.
Sellita based the creation of its calibers on ETA movements, including quality levels (Standard, Elaboré, Top and Chronomètre), and named its movements SW.
Among its main calibers are the SW 200, which corresponds to the classic ETA 2824-2, SW 300 (corresponds to ETA 2892) and SW 500 (corresponds to ETA-Valjoux 7750)
Sinn 556 with caliber SW 200-1
Patents prevent a third party from making use of the technology created by an inventor, and the time of use of the technology is generally around 20 years. Sellita based its moves on those of ETA, because the patents had already expired.
For nearly 40 years, MIYOTA has supplied watch movements to the world's leading brands. MIYOTA's heritage dates back to 1959, when Citizen Watch established a movement factory in Miyota City, Japan.
Since the turn of the millennium, Miyota has also been manufacturing micro-dials and is growing strongly in China. Since 2008, the company has been known as Citizen Fintech Miyota Co. Limited. and indicates the change in direction.
The Miyota 8215 is an automatic caliber with 3 central hands, second hand and date. This type of caliber has no seconds stop and has 21 jewels. It offers a power reserve of 42 hours and can be wound manually by winding it by turning the crown without removing it, fully charging with about 40 turns.This caliber also has an anti-shock or parashock system that allows the caliber to withstand shocks or falls.
Spinnaker Cahill con calibre Miyota 8215
The MIYOTA Saku factory was established as a "green park" to help reduce the effects on the environment. Some 26,000 plants of 110 varieties have been planted on the grounds of the facility to help maintain and reduce ground surface temperatures during all seasons of the year.